Establecimientos emblemáticos
The soul of the city
Some have survived two world wars. And globalisation. And coronavirus. There are few businesses in Palma that continue to devote themselves passionately to the same activity after decades (some of them have even been open for 300 years!). Which is why it is always worth remembering them. And supporting them.
photography Íñigo Vega / Archivo
Strolling through Palma’s old town nowadays, one cannot help but feel a certain nostalgia for the patisserie Can Frasquet, Forn des Teatre (which at least still has its lovely art nouveau sign) or the Casa Roca stationery store, shops that disappeared recently which treasured over a century of history and several generations of families who ran them – parents, children and grandparents working side by side, day after day. It is beautiful and even moving that in the age of Amazon and Aliexpress there are still people who go to the traditional shops instead of purchasing articles they have not tried, touched or smelt over the Internet.
On any day of the week, at the door of Merceria Àngela (Av. Jaime II, 33), opened since 1685, you are likely to find a queue. Customers to whom the current owner, Miquel Aguiló, has always dispensed friendly service as he moves lithely between the counter and the wooden drawers full of the secrets of haute couture, boxes containing thousands of buttons, threads of all colours, ties, tights, fans... “The difference between yesterday and today is that there used to be four shop assistants who worked alongside my father and myself, and now I serve on my own. I hope to carry on until I retire. Then we’ll see”.
In the parallel street, you will find one of the most renowned traditional companies on the island, Relojería Alemana (C. Colón, 14). For what is almost a century and a half, they have managed to combine great luxury, first-brand watches and their own unique pieces of fine jewellery with the friendly service of their whole team.
At the entrance of La Pajarita (C. San Nicolás, 2), a sign indicates the year of its inauguration: 1872. This gourmet business was the first shop selling imported groceries in Palma. “We forget that the Spanish word for groceries, ultramarinos, means “from overseas”. We were the first to bring products that were previously unknown to Mallorca”, says Javier Mulet, a member of the fifth generation at the head of this establishment, which will soon welcome the sixth one. Curiously enough, they were the first to import bananas to Mallorca. They would put them in a special corner of the shop, lit up under a spotlight which attracted a lot of people. They also introduced the champagne, Moët & Chandon.
Pedro Juan Massanet is not a member of the Martorell family, but he has been the manager of Can Joan de s’Aigo (C. de Sanç, 10) for a year and a half. When Juan Martorell died with no descendants, he left this business, which was established in 1700, to his eight nephews and nieces, who are the third generation of the family initiated by the nevater (ice harvester) Joan de s’Aigo, who collected snow in the Tramontana mountains and created the first almond ice cream, which is now the most famous flavour on the menu. “They wanted me to maintain the traditional essence: good quality, plenty of dedication and loving care to reach everyone”.
In 1866, Mr. Llofriu used a charcoal toaster for his coffee shop in a side street off Calle San Nicolás. When he retired, a family from Andratx took over Cafés Llofriu (Mercat del Olivar, 2-3). In spite of the changes in owners and spaces, the company has kept the same logo from the 19th century – the oldest one in Mallorca.
In the middle of the 16th century, Mallorca had sixteen cordage workshops on the census. Today Mimbrería Vidal (C. Corderia, 26) is one of the few businesses that continues to sell baskets and wicker objects, among others. Tomás Vidal, the grandson of the first known owner, still repairs strung chairs. And he is proud to have internationalised his products, thanks to the online business through which they are sent to countries like Germany or England.
These are just some examples of the nearly 90 emblematic establishments listed by Palma Activa - Palma City Council (www.palmaactiva.com) which includes illustrious names like Bar Bosch, Casa Vila, Celler Sa Premsa, Colmado Colom, Forn de la Glòria, La Veneciana, Joyería Pinya-Grau or Vidrierías Gordiola, and more. Spaces that harbour a little piece of our city’s history.
